How to Shop for Used Laptop or Desktop PC – Full Guide

Shopping Used Computer

How to Shop for Used Laptop or Desktop PC
How to Shop for Used Laptop or Desktop PC

In the event on how to shop for a used laptop or desktop pc, it’s hard to find a cheap computer with a screen that’s nice to look at, a keyboard and trackpad that are comfortable to use—or just not terrible—and fast-enough performance that won’t leave you waiting for apps and tabs to open.  How to Shop for Used Laptop or Desktop PC

Amid the ongoing  economic recession, a rush of people buying computers for school and work have made the task almost impossible.

One Solution? How to Shop for Used Laptop or Desktop PC

Buying a good used PC entails a little more work than getting something new, but a laptop or desktop from a few years ago should still be good enough for you to browse the internet, hop on video calls, edit documents and other school projects, and chat with teachers and friends.

And stores like:

and others all have a wide selection of used PCs, saving you from riskier sites like Craigslist and eBay.

Whether you’re preparing for another semester of remote schooling or still adapting to working from home, choosing a used PC can be an economical way to buy a computer you don’t hate.

 

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Why And How to Shop for Used Laptop or Desktop PC

In getting a used PC, you can save a few hundred dollars on a computer that can do most of the same stuff a new one can.

For the things most people do on their computers:

  • Browsing the web,
  • Editing documents and spreadsheets, or
  • Looking at and editing pictures and videos from your phone

a new computer and one from a few years ago don’t perform that differently from one another.

If you’re on a strict budget, buying used may allow you to buy something that’s nicer than a modern budget laptop for the same money.

A high-end Lenovo ThinkPad that sold for $1,400 two or three years ago, for example, will have an as-fast-or-faster processor and a better screen, and will be made of nicer materials, than a new laptop that’s selling for $500.

Plus, buying a used PC cuts down on electronic waste.

You rescue an old but functional computer from getting thrown in the trash, and you avoid buying a cheap PC that will wear out and be disposed of in a few years.





If you’re looking to play high-end games or do professional 3D drafting work, a used PC might not be the best choice for you.

Graphics processors are still advancing more quickly than other computer components, and the new game consoles that are due out in the fall will prompt higher system requirements for PC games, too.

A used laptop might still be a good fit for photo and video editing, though, since those apps don’t demand as much graphics performance.

A used laptop usually doesn’t come with a top-tier level of customer service or warranty support, the kind you can get with an AppleCare Protection Plan or an extended manufacturer warranty.

You can find used PCs with a year or two left on their original warranties, and those warranties generally transfer to new owners without problems.

But it’s more common to find limited 30- or 90-day warranties that will cover you if the computer is dead on arrival but not much else.

Third-party extended warranties from companies like

        1. Asurion,
        2. Geek Squad, or
        3. SquareTrade

(depending on where you buy from) can offer some peace of mind, but the customer service these companies provide can be hit or miss, and you should read the fine print carefully to check what is and is not covered.

The best support comes with a manufacturer-refurbished PC, which carries a like-new warranty from the company that made the computer.

 

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The three most important things to look for in a used PC are:

  1. The Physical condition (especially for laptops, which move around more and take more punishment),
  2. Its make and model number, and
  3. Specifications.

Some used-PC sellers post pictures of the actual computers they’re selling, which makes it easier for you to assess a computer’s condition.

Others might assign it a letter grade—stick to systems with an A or B rating to reduce the risk of visible damage or wear.

The only way to guarantee you’ll get something that looks truly new is to buy a manufacturer-refurbished system.

Generally, we suggest sticking to desktops and laptops made by:

It’s okay to buy used computers made by smaller outfits like Acer or Asus, but it’s usually easier to find parts and support for older computers made by the bigger companies.

In particular, we like business desktops and laptops such as those in the Dell Optiplex and Latitude series, the Lenovo ThinkCentre and ThinkPad family, and the HP Pro and Elite lineup.

These kinds of PCs are chunkier than modern ultrabooks like Dell’s XPS 13 or Apple’s MacBook Air, but they’re easier to upgrade and repair, and they’re built out of sturdier materials more likely to hold up under stress.





Minimum Requirements: How to Shop for Used Laptop or Desktop PC

Most people can get by with a computer that meets our minimum requirements. If you just need to do basic tasks like web browsing, document editing, and video chatting, here’s what you should look for:

Processor:

Choose a fourth-generation or newer Intel Core processor (look for a model number that starts with Core i3, i5, or i7, followed by a number in the 4000s or higher). Intel’s fourth-generation chips aren’t much faster than its third-generation chips, but they do support noticeably better battery life.

Memory:

For basic web browsing and app usage, 4 GB is the absolute minimum. But if you buy a computer with 4 GB, check to see if you can upgrade the memory yourself—you can almost always upgrade a desktop, but lots of laptops don’t allow it.

Storage:

A 128 GB or larger solid-state drive is preferable to a larger but slower mechanical hard disk drive, in both reliability and responsiveness. But buying a computer with a hard drive and upgrading it to an SSD yourself can allow you to save some money.

Screen type:

For notebooks, look for IPS displays, which provide better color reproduction and viewing angles than cheap TN displays (WVA displays, although rarer and not as good as IPS, also usually look okay). Used-computer listings don’t always specify the display technology, but 1080p screens are more likely (albeit not guaranteed) to be IPS.

Screen resolution:

We prefer laptop screens with a 1920×1080-pixel resolution, also called 1080p or Full HD, but some older laptops might get by with 1440×900 or 1600×900 screens. Avoid 1366×768 (also called HD) screens, which look worse and tend to use inferior TN technology.

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Preferred requirements: How to Shop for Used Laptop or Desktop PC

If you want a computer that looks and feels a bit faster and more modern—and can run higher-end professional apps when you need them—look for a system that meets our preferred requirements instead:

Processor:

Look for a seventh-generation or newer Intel Core processor (Core i3, i5, or i7, followed by a number in the 7000s or higher) or a 3000- or 4000-series AMD Ryzen processor (Ryzen 3, 5, or 7, followed by 3000- or 4000-something).

These processors are a good baseline if you’re playing 4K video or connecting to 4K monitors.

Memory:

Most people can get by just fine with 8 GB of memory. The biggest reason to buy more than that is if you’ll be playing games or using professional apps like Adobe Photoshop, Lightroom, or Premiere.

Storage:

When you’re buying a new PC, we recommend an SSD that’s 256 GB or larger, which is enough for your operating system, your most important software, and your photos and documents.

If you need more space, consider a cloud storage service or an external drive.

Screen Type:

Same as above—IPS displays are the best thing to aim for in a notebook, and they’re more common in newer computers.

Screen Resolution:

We think 1080p screens offer laptops the best combination of sharpness and battery life.

You may be able to find laptops with 4K displays, but such a screen adds to the laptop’s cost and reduces battery life without adding benefits most people are likely to notice.

In Macs, look for a Retina Display.

USB-C or Thunderbolt 3 ports:

These aren’t a necessity, but a USB-C port that can charge a laptop and connect to newer monitors is especially convenient (these ports are not as big a deal for desktops). Replacement USB-C chargers are also easier to find and cheaper to buy.

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Things to avoid Shopping Used Laptop or Desktop PC

Old or slow processors: 

This list includes Intel Celerons and Pentiums, Intel Core 2 Duo and Core 2 Quad processors, and first-, second-, and third-generation Intel Core processors, as well as AMD A-series processors.

These are older or slower processors that will all feel their age as you use them. Some may even have trouble supporting basic features of Windows 10 or running modern versions of macOS.

1366×768 screens: 

These low-resolution screens, sometimes called HD or WXGA displays, can’t fit as much information and don’t look as sharp as higher-resolution screens. They’re also more likely to use cheap, washed-out TN display panels.

Spinning hard drives (HDD):

A traditional hard drive is the slowest part of any older or cheaper computer. If you buy a computer with an HDD, consider replacing that storage with an SSD.

Less than 64 GB of storage:

That isn’t enough space for you to comfortably install Windows and your most important apps while leaving enough room for Windows Update to work properly.

Computers with such tiny SSDs also tend to use a cheaper kind of storage called eMMC, which is slower than a typical SSD and not upgradable.

802.11n Wi-Fi (aka Wi-Fi 4):

A computer with an older Wi-Fi adapter can still connect to a Wi-Fi 5 or Wi-Fi 6 network, so if an 802.11n Wi-Fi adapter is the only thing wrong with a computer you like, that shouldn’t be a dealbreaker.

But Wi-Fi 5 (or 802.11ac) has been standard in most computers for the past five or six years, so you should avoid Wi-Fi 4 if you can.




Things to avoid with used Macs

Pre-2013 Macs: 

These computers still run okay, but they won’t be supported by this fall’s new macOS release, Big Sur, or any future releases of macOS.

This means you’ll stop getting security updates sooner, and apps will become incompatible sooner.

MacBooks released between 2016 and 2019:

13- and 15-inch MacBook Pros released between 2016 and 2019, 13-inch MacBook Airs released in 2018 and 2019, and all models of the 12-inch MacBook all employ a shallow, unsatisfying “butterfly” keyboard with well-documented reliability problems.

Apple is still offering free repairs for these keyboards even when they’re out of warranty, but you should avoid such models entirely if you can help it.


When it comes to buying used PCs, it’s best to avoid sites like Craigslist, eBay, or Reddit—it’s possible to find good deals there, but if you don’t know exactly what you’re looking for, you can easily get tripped up by fake or misleading listings or even a PC preloaded with malware.

If you’re buying your first used computer, you can avoid scams and heartbreak by sticking to major retailers. Computers from these sellers are also more likely to be professionally cleaned and restored.

Best Buy has a wide selection of preowned, refurbished, and open-box laptops and desktops.

The site’s filters make it fairly easy to narrow down the specs by our recommendations above, and the desktops in particular are good deals if you’re able to upgrade the memory or install an SSD yourself.

When buying from Amazon, stick to models with the Amazon Renewed tag, which Amazon says “have been inspected and tested by qualified suppliers to look and work like new” and come with a 90-day replacement-or-refund policy.

Newegg, a popular site for people who like to build or upgrade their own PCs, also has a lot of used laptop and desktop PC listings, though the search function isn’t as nice.

Some of Newegg’s listings are for much older computers than you’ll find at Amazon or Best Buy, so be especially careful about checking the offerings for our minimum and preferred requirements.

Using the “sold/shipped by Newegg” search filters limits the models available but makes it easier for you to find something in good condition sold by the site itself rather than a potentially sketchy third party.

Local computer stores may also be a good place to check for used hardware. Micro Center keeps a decent selection of refurbished desktops and laptops on hand—some of these are available online, but many are available only if you can make it to an actual store.

You might have other decent options local to you—in the San Francisco Bay Area, for example, Central Computers is a well-regarded local chain.

A little research and checking Yelp and the BBB might reveal good, reasonably priced options near you, and calling ahead with our recommended specs in hand can help you figure out if any of the store’s in-stock systems will work for you.

If you do take your chances on a site like eBay, it’s especially important to make sure the pictures in the listing are of the actual computer you’ll be buying—not one laptop among several, or pictures that claim to be “representative” of what you’re buying.

Consider buying computers from outside the your Country, since they can take several weeks to ship and such listings are more likely to be scams.

Check the listings for laptops to make sure that the charger is included. And don’t buy from sellers with little to no feedback or a lot of negative feedback.

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If you want to save some money but don’t want to take the risks that come with buying used, you might be happy with a manufacturer-refurbished computer.

These are systems that are returned to the company that made them, repaired with new parts, and resold in like-new condition with the same warranties you get with new laptops and desktops.

Note the difference between a manufacturer-refurbished PC and one listed as “refurbished” on the sites of :

      • Best Buy,
      • Newegg,

and elsewhere—at many online stores, “refurbished” is usually just a fancy word for “used.”

The companies with the best pages for refurbished PCs are Apple and Dell. Both have frequently updated inventories of near-new desktops and laptops; both offer the same warranties you get with their new products, including the opportunity to extend those warranties from one to three or four years; and both make it easy to sort computers by specs so you can buy exactly what you want.

HP offers some refurbished items, but you need to look up what you want on its website and then call to order, while Lenovo’s refurbished site is sparsely stocked and hard to search.

If you’re buying a refurbished MacBook, we suggest sticking to 2020 models of the 13-inch Pro and MacBook Air so you don’t end up with the oft-maligned (and justly so) butterfly-switch keyboard. The 16-inch MacBook Pro is also fine.

For a refurbished Dell computer, look for:

  • 8 GB or more of RAM,
  • 256 GB or more of storage, and
  • an eighth- or 10th-generation Core i3, i5, or i7 processor

Steer away from:

      • Celerons and
      • Pentiums,

Particularly those with a model number that starts with N.

If you’re buying a laptop, look for a 1080p screen. I prefer Latitudes because they’re usually built better than Inspiron models, and it’s usually easier to upgrade their storage or memory; you could also look for recent XPS 13 models, since that series has been our favorite ultrabook for years now.

As you shop, check out Dell’s coupon codes to see if there are any models with particularly good discounts; these codes refresh every week or so.



When you buy a used PC, you might find that it needs maintenance more quickly or more regularly than a brand-new computer.

Or it might need some extra memory or faster storage to help it cope better with modern websites and apps. You can upgrade nearly all desktops and many laptops with a bit of time, research, and a few tools.

We can’t advise you on every possible repair to every possible system—iFixit has some PC repair guides, though not for all models—but we can cover the basics.

And we have some more advice for repairing and resuscitating an old laptop.

SSD: 

If you buy a used PC with a spinning hard drive, that component will be by far the slowest thing in the entire computer.

Upgrading to a solid-state drive will dramatically speed things up.

We have SSD recommendations for older and newer computers—Crucial’s System Advisor page can give you some information on the kind of drive you need.

If the computer you bought already has a small, 128 GB or 256 GB SSD and you want more space, 500 GB and 1 TB drives are much more affordable than they were a few years ago.

Memory:

A Windows PC with 4 GB of memory or less will struggle once you’ve opened more than a couple of apps and a few browser tabs.

We recommend 8 GB for general use and 16 GB for people who plan to regularly play high-end games or use high-end apps like Adobe Photoshop or Lightroom.

Again, the Crucial System Advisor page can tell you what kind of memory to buy for your system—though many laptops, including all MacBooks made after 2012, don’t allow memory upgrades at all.

Chargers:

Some used laptops are sold without chargers, and older MacBook power supplies in particular are prone to fraying.

It’s safest to buy a replacement directly from your computer’s manufacturer, and AcerAppleAsusDellHP, and Lenovo all have stores you can try.

Avoid cheap knock-off chargers, which don’t last as long and can be fire hazards, and don’t buy Apple chargers from eBay, where counterfeits are almost unavoidable.

OWC sells genuine Apple chargers for older MacBooks for less than Apple’s prices. For newer USB-C laptops, any certified USB-C charger should work fine.

Wi-Fi:

Wi-Fi adapters might not be included in your used PC, especially in older desktops. That’s fine if you can connect the computer to your router with a wire, but if you can’t, reliable USB Wi-Fi adapters are available for as little as $20.

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Windows 10:

If your used PC came with Windows 10 already installed, you might not need to worry about updating.

But if it came with Windows 7 (which is no longer receiving security updates) or Windows 8 (which is awkward and less familiar than other versions of Windows), you should consider upgrading.

A new Windows 10 license usually costs around $130, but if your PC shipped with Windows 8 or has a Windows 7 product key, you may be able to activate Windows 10 for no extra cost.

If you need advice on how to install Windows from scratch even if your PC came with Windows 10, a fresh install that you perform yourself can get rid of any bloatware that came installed on the computer.

macOS: How to Shop for Used Laptop or Desktop PC

Apple makes it pretty easy to upgrade to the latest version of macOS that your particular Mac is capable of running—this page can help you determine whether you can install the latest version (macOS Catalina, as of this writing) and what you need to do.

Most Macs released in or after 2012 can run Catalina. Macs released between 2009 or 2010 and 2012 can still run the relatively recent High Sierra.

Macs older than that can’t officially run any version of macOS that is still receiving security updates, and they’re pretty slow at this point, anyway—consider upgrading if you own one, and definitely don’t buy a pre-2009 Mac at this point.

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